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mneuwirth
Chess Game Collections
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  1. Attacking with the French Compiled by Patca63
    This collection of 11 games was Compiled by Patca63. Thank you Patca63!
    11 games, 1982-2013

  2. Attacking with the French Compiled by Patca63
    This collection of 11 games was Compiled by Patca63. Thank you Patca63!
    11 games, 1982-2013

  3. Attacking with the French Compiled by Patca63
    This collection of 11 games was Compiled by Patca63. Thank you Patca63!
    11 games, 1982-2013

  4. Attacks & Sacs on f7 Fredthebear ECO codes A-D-E
    Protect yourself at all times! Keep your guard up or that right cross will land square on your chinny, chin, chin and you'll be seein' stars, belly up.

    Thank you Sneaky Pete.

    * Game Collection: Checkmate: Checkmate Patterns This link has a good, concise collection of diagrammed checkmate patterns by name. The new reader may wish to consult it initially to the point of memorization.

    409 games, 1802-2019

  5. a_mneuwirth 2 review 2
    16 games, 1939-2009

  6. B12 (Seirawan)
    Thanks Chessdreamer

    Yasser Seirawan: B12, Chess Informant 1993


    click for larger view

    (18);
    2 Barczay-Spiridonov, Zrenjanin 1980
    7 N.Mitkov-Lokotar, Groningen Open 1991
    8 T.Wall-Hodgson, Great Britain Ch 1990
    10 Prasad-Skembris, Dubai ol 1986
    12 Tivjakov-Vorotnikov, Belgorod 1989
    16 Minasian-Khenkin, Minsk 1990
    22 Schaufelberger-Pytel, SUI-POL 1974
    32 Prasad-Murugan, India 1992
    39 Sveshnikov-Donchenko, Moscow 1983
    41 Klinger-Hodgson, Oakham 1984
    42 I.Gurevich-Hodgson, Philadelphia 1990
    45 Pandavos-Skembris, Athens 1983
    58 Fabri-Karpati, corr. 1983
    59 Efimov-Vdovin, Soviet Union 1980
    65 Efimov-Machulsky, Soviet Union 1979
    73 Sariego-A.Rodriguez, Bayamo 1982
    74 Sax-Vadasz, Hungary 1985
    79 Yudasin-Seirawan, Jacksonville 1990

    82 games, 1927-1992

  7. B17 (Karpov)
    Thanks Chessdreamer

    Anatolij Karpov: B17; Chess Informant 1994


    click for larger view

    (8);
    6 Wolff-W.Watson, London 1990
    7 Lauk-Lokotar, Estonia 1992
    22 Benjamin-Dlugy, USA-ch 1984
    23 Matanovic-Ciric, Yugoslavia 1969
    31 Gazik-Meduna, Novy Smokovec 1992
    36 W.Watson-Spiridonov, Palma de Mallorca 1989
    56 London-Dlugy, Brooklyn 1985
    71 A.Martin-Meduna, Bad Wφrishofen 1988

    92 games, 1961-1994

  8. B2 Bomber Codes Confuzzle Fredthebear
    These lines are anti-Sicilian approaches.

    Sicilian Defence

    Andreaschek Gambit – B21 – 1.e4 c5 2.d4 cxd4 3.Nf3 e5 4.c3

    Bronstein Gambit – B52 – 1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 d6 3.Bb5+ Bd7 4.Bxd7+ Qxd7 5.O-O Nc6 6.c3 Nf6 7.d4

    Kasparov Gambit – B44 – 1. e4 c5 2. Nf3 e6 3. d4 cxd4 4. Nxd4 Nc6 5. Nb5 d6 6. c4 Nf6 7.N1c3 a6 8. Na3 d5

    Morra Gambit – B32 – 1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.d4 cxd4 4.c3

    Portsmouth Gambit – B30 – 1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.b4

    Rubinstein Countergambit – B29 – 1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 Nf6 3.e5 Nd5 4.Nc3 e6 5.Nxd5 exd5 6.d4 Nc6

    Sicilian Gambit – B45 – 1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 e6 3.d4 cxd4 4.Nxd4 Nf6 5.Nc3 Nc6 6.Be2 Bb4 7.O-O

    Smith-Morra Gambit – B21 – 1.e4 c5 2.d4 cxd4 3.c3

    Wing Gambit Deferred [Sicilian 2...d6] – B50 – 1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 d6 (or 2...e6) 3.b4

    Wing Gambit – B20 – 1.e4 c5 2.b4

    Zollner Gambit – B73 – 1.e4 c5 2.Nf3 d6 3.d4 cxd4 4.Nxd4 Nf6 5.Nc3 g6 6.Be2 Bg7 7.Be3 Nc6 8.O-O O-O 9.f4 Qb6 10.e5

    The King's Indian Attack and Sicilian Wing Gambit have separate files. Many of the 2.c3 Alapin Sicilians and Closed Sicilians/Grand Prix will be moved to those particular files and deleted from here.


    294 games, 1620-2017

  9. Basic Foodfight Recipe Catered by Fredthebear
    This collection was originally compiled by foodfight and has since been expanded buffet-style by Fredthebear. Thank you foodfight!

    This is a repertoire for scholastic players that can be used their entire chess career. Fredthebear has inserted numerous additional games to the original food preparation of 20 games (and comments) that are scattered through out. More entrees continue to be added to the menu as we continue to fire and hire more cooks.

    Hey, don't get any big ideas, kids. Any of you young'uns that throw food will be eating celery and crackers for a week!

    For White:

    Play the same White openings over and over against the same Black defenses so you come to understand what will happen next. Black could play any one of two dozen different defenses. Then there are variations within each defense! For example, in the Scandinavian Defense, Black might play the queen to Qa5, Qd6, Qd8, or leave her alone and bring out the knight instead -- even though White starts out the same way against all variations! This is plenty for White to learn about; start the same way and get accustomed to all the different tries by Black. Don't go changing your White openings around. Stick with the same approach and learn how to beat each Black defense and it's variations. Your performance will gradually improve as you play these sample games over and over and over again and become familiar with Black's operations.

    Start by playing 1.e4. "Best by test" said Bobby Fischer. This was shown in his dominant performances as a youth player all the way to becoming undisputed world champion.

    By moving a center pawn ahead two squares (1.e4 in this case), the knight, bishop and queen can all come off the back rank as needed to influence the center. Mobility is ALL important! (A piece that cannot move is of little use.) The knight, bishop and queen ALL increase their mobility by moving off the edge toward the middle, threatening more squares from the center of the board. Rapid piece development off the back row can lead to some quick attacks if your opponent moves too many pawns or the same piece back and forth wasting time. Activate your entire army for a stronger fighting force. Get a numbers advantage. Do this by developing a different piece off the back row into the fight on each turn!! Play with your faster pieces, not your slow pawns!

    In the opening, it's generally best to move a center pawn, both knights and bishops (the minor pieces) to prepare to safely castle the king away from the raging battle in the center. The two armies will fight in the center of the board while your castled king watches from a distant corner. General Tip: In most well-played games, the king and rooks first moves are sideways, not forward. The rooks like the space between them cleared out so they can guard each other... this is called connected rooks. The king does not charge out to fight until much, much later in the game after most of the faster pieces are traded off (the opening dozen moves and middle game exchanges have come and gone) when there's no fear of him getting checkmated due to lack of remaining material in the endgame.

    Legall's Checkmate. This well-known checkmate pattern uses three minor pieces to checkmate the opposing king before it has a chance to castle. In the opening phase, quickly bring your minor pieces off the back row! White moves the Ng1 to Nf3 to Ne5 to protect the Bxf7+ coming next. This knight maneuver into the middle is an unpin that exposes the unmoved White queen to capture... a sitting sacrifice that buys time. While the Black bishop is busy capturing the White queen, the White minor pieces swarm in upon the Black king for checkmate. (Instead of getting checkmated, Black's best play is to capture the White knight in the middle to stop Legall's checkmate, which allows the White queen to capture the undefended Black bishop.)

    More Basic Checkmates in the Italian Game (C50-C55) and Uncommon Openings (A00) show how to use the knight, bishop and queen to quickly smash Black's position if Black delays minor piece development. Black's f7-square is vulnerable in the opening because it's only protection is by the king. The student cannot win a game of chess until s/he understands how to inflict checkmate (as well as prevent incoming threats)! Most mating attacks require three or four units working together. One and two piece attacks are a waste of time.

    Note that White on the attack often ignores the threat of a minor piece (knight or bishop) being captured by a pawn to continue on with the attack! Remember, when one of your pieces is threatened with capture, do not automatically retreat it to safety. Instead, try to make a greater threat against the opposing king or queen.

    Chew up the Center Counter/Scandinavian (B01) defense. White should always accept Black's pawn offer 2.exd5 and then develop the minor pieces (knights and bishops) with a comfortable game. Gain time by threatening the Black queen when possible. Just be aware of Black's bishops pinning White knights.

    Swallow the Sicilian with the Grand Prix Attack (B23). This is a good attacking Anti-Sicilian line that expands on the kingside. White should use the 3.Bb5 Closed system (B25) if Black plays 2.Nc6. You can find more on the GBW way to play the Grand Prix here: Game Collection: BRCC: Against The Sicilian These same Anti-Sicilian concepts can be used as Black when combating the English Opening 1.c4. See the (A27) games toward the bottom of the list.

    Serve an extra free pawn in the Scotch Gambit (C44-C45). For more Scotch Gambit ideas check out "A Lazy Player's Guide To The Scotch Gambit" http://web.archive.org/web/20020803... Many of our players like the Italian Game 3.Bc4. You can find another agressive way to play here: Game Collection: BRCC: Mad Italian Openings For White

    Dilute Damiano's (C40) Defense 2...f6? Beginning 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 f6? is a poor defense if White has studied how to take advantage of it. White can execute the immediate knight sacrifice 3.Nxe5! as shown in the (C40) sample games. Or, White can play 3.Bc4 or 3.d4 safely as shown in the (A00) game.

    Fry the French (C00-C19) Defense with Nc3 Variations (Winawer and Classical)See Game Collection: French Defense: Winawer. Poisoned Pawn Variation and Game Collection: FRENCH CLASSICAL for more.

    Fredthebear has significantly boosted the French repertoire with many additional games. White must carefully protect his center pawns against the French defense and expect Black to form a battery along the c-file. White nearly always castles kingside, away from Black's queenside expansion. Sometimes White trades off the e-pawn and makes use of the e-file. White often benefits from having the safer castled king against the French defense; the Black king may or may not castle.

    For Black:

    Most of the repertoire is based on responding to 1.e4 with ...e5. If you want another approach, consider the Sicilian Sveshnikov: Game Collection: BRCC: Sicilian Sveshnikov, Paulsen, & Neo-Paulse

    Two Knights Defense. Foodfight hesitated to recommend this. Make sure you learn this system well if you are going to play it. There is a lot to learn here (but the games are exciting tactical battles). Check out this game collection: Game Collection: Two Knights Additional Study Also check out this excellent collection on the Traxler Counter-attack:Game Collection: Wandering Tour through the Traxler Counterattack More Black victories in the Two Knights: Game Collection: two knights The Giuoco Piano is a quieter alternative: Game Collection: BRCC: 1. e4 Games For White and Black

    Ruy Lopez, Schliemann Defense. This is complex, but fun, approach. You can (and need to) learn more here: Game Collection: repertorio gaston If the Schliemann is not for you consider the Marshall Attack - Game Collection: MARSHALL ATTACK The Marshall Attack in the Spanish Game is more involved for Black.

    Also prepare a Black defense for the Danish Gambit, Scotch Game, and Four Knights Game.

    Against 1.d4 2.c4 Queen's Gambit, play the Albin Countergambit - There are more games to look at here: Game Collection: Albin

    If White starts 1.d4 but does not offer 2.c4, Black must prepare for slower approaches that generally aim for a kingside attack, especially the popular Colle System.

    Note: Against 1.Nf3, Black is advised to replay with 1...d5 in preparation for transposals, but 1...g3 can be met by 1...e5.

    What to think about during a chess game?

    Chess Tip: "Attack a more important unit!" "Attack" means to take aim at an opposing unit, threatening to capture it on the next turn. A "more important unit" is any opposing army member of greater value. The pawn has the least value, the king has the greatest value. For example, you might aim a pawn at his bishop, or aim your knight at his rooks or royalty. Start by looking to attack the most important piece first...the king.

    The object of chess is to checkmate the king. The king is more important than all the other units combined. Your king must survive while you go after his king! But, if you cannot check the king in 1 or 2 moves, then consider taking aim at the queen, or rooks because they have a lot of mobility once the pawns are out of the way. It can be wise to aim your long range pieces (bishops, rooks and queen) through a pawn or knight at the opponent's most important pieces (king, queen, and rooks). So, try to attack a more important piece, especially royalty, by direct aim or by indirect aim through a unit sitting in between the attacker and the target.

    The old games of Gioachino Greco and Paul Morphy give excellent examples of how to attack the king. If no attack on the king is readily available, they often attack the queen or rook -- the next most important pieces. Just remember that capturing the opposing queen or rook improves your chances of winning eventually, but does not guarantee a win. For after you make your capture, the move now belongs to your opponent, who may go after your own king!

    Before you look for your move, stop and think about what your opponent intends to do next. What is your opponent's NEXT move? What is s/he aiming at? Am I in check? Can s/he put me in check on the next turn? If s/he makes a capture, will I re-capture or do something else? Can s/he add add another attacker or subtract my defender (get rid of a protective unit one way or another) from the protection coverage? Where can I be outnumbered? Examine all possible CHECKS and CAPTURES on the move, and threats to check or capture in TWO MOVES. Consider an attacking move -- taking aim -- for each and every piece. Don't ignore any pieces, theirs or yours. Don't leave any back row pieces just sitting still on their original squares. It's O.K., often wise for flank pawns to sit on their original squares. The center pawns need to be moved early in the game, but the flank pawns might or might not move at all. Try not to move flank pawns until the endgame arises after several captures have been made.

    Knights are especially tricky. A dark-squared knight can attack several different dark squares in two moves (moving from dark square to light square to dark square). Likewise, a light-squared knight can attack several light squares in two moves (moving from light square to dark square to light square). Conversely, the dark squared bishop might only need one move to attack two units on the same dark line. The LIGHT squared bishop might only need one move to attack two units on the same LIGHT line. However, bishops cannot change colors or hop over obstructive pawns like the knight can. Knights work well in a crowd. Bishops need open lines. Bishops get stronger as more and more pawns are removed.

    The key is to not get so greedy, tunnel vision, or overly concerned about one particular move that you forget to consider a move by each and every piece. Playing the obvious move will get you beat by the not-so-obvious move that you forgot to consider! Find the best move by each piece, then compare each possibility and decide which one move fits the needs of the position the best.

    When you see a good move -- wait! Look for a better move. Keep shopping around. You wouldn't marry the first girl you see, would you?

    Sometimes you can temporarily ignore the opponent's threat to make a stronger move of your own. For example, if your opponent is trying to capture your knight, but you can capture his rook with check, you can ignore this threat against your knight and take his rook instead! In another instance, you might be able to pin the attacker to it's king so it cannot move to capture. A pin can really slow down the opponent if s/he cannot wiggle out of it!

    Another Chess Tip: Try to make one move that attacks two opposing units at the same time. For example, a bishop pin or a knight fork aims at two opposing units at the same time, sometimes three! This is especially useful if one or more of the opposing units are undefended, free for the taking on the next turn. The concept of "double attack" at the same time is very important in chess. Your opponent only has one move, and might not be able to save both units from capture.

    Most strong chess players solve tactics, combinations, and checkmate positions every day. It's a lot of fun to analyze chess diagrams from a book to find the best move. Most old-timers have studied chess puzzles published by authors Fred Reinfeld, Milton Finkelstein, Julius Du Mont, Larry Evans, and Dr. Siegbert Tarrasch. Others have studied puzzles by authors Gary Lane, Julian Hodgson, Paul Littlewood, Raymond Keene, John Nunn and Neil McDonald. A.J. Gillam and Murray Chandler have written some excellent books for scholastic players to study. "The Right Way to Play Chess" by David Pritchard is inexpensive and full of useful information for advanced beginners and intermediates. A simple but highly useful book on checkmates is "Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess" by Bobby Fischer and friends! Of course, there are so many other good chess writers around the world. However, I caution students: If the book has lots and lots of writing and very few diagrams, it is probably too advanced and probably should wait some years for advancement. Instead, get a chess puzzle book with lots of diagrams (usually 300+ diagrams in one book).

    Learning to find the best move in a position will make you a strong attacker. Identifying the opponent's best move coming next will turn you into a strong defender. Both will result from solving chess puzzles every day!

    Repetition is the Key to Studying This List of Games: A) Play through the first five games twice. Go back to the top. B) Play through the first ten games twice. Return to the top. C) Play through the first fifteen games twice. Return to top. D) Play through the first twenty games twice. Return to top. E) Play through the first twenty-five games twice. Etc. Etc. F) Play through the first thirty games twice. Etc. Etc. Etc. Replays continue to slowly but surely add to your foundation of knowledge without forgetting what you already know.

    Fredthebear is working on other chess projects. No significant changes or additions are expected to this collection until 2019.

    * Tpstar 2Ns: Game Collection: tpstar 2N

    * A few Spanish Closed Defense games by Rubinstein: Game Collection: A Spanish Repertoire for Black


    278 games, 1620-2015

  10. Basic Foodfight Recipe Catered by Fredthebear
    This collection was originally compiled by foodfight and has since been expanded buffet-style by Fredthebear. Thank you foodfight!

    This is a repertoire for scholastic players that can be used their entire chess career. Fredthebear has inserted numerous additional games to the original food preparation of 20 games (and comments) that are scattered through out. More entrees continue to be added to the menu as we continue to fire and hire more cooks.

    Hey, don't get any big ideas, kids. Any of you young'uns that throw food will be eating celery and crackers for a week!

    For White:

    Play the same White openings over and over against the same Black defenses so you come to understand what will happen next. Black could play any one of two dozen different defenses. Then there are variations within each defense! For example, in the Scandinavian Defense, Black might play the queen to Qa5, Qd6, Qd8, or leave her alone and bring out the knight instead -- even though White starts out the same way against all variations! This is plenty for White to learn about; start the same way and get accustomed to all the different tries by Black. Don't go changing your White openings around. Stick with the same approach and learn how to beat each Black defense and it's variations. Your performance will gradually improve as you play these sample games over and over and over again and become familiar with Black's operations.

    Start by playing 1.e4. "Best by test" said Bobby Fischer. This was shown in his dominant performances as a youth player all the way to becoming undisputed world champion.

    By moving a center pawn ahead two squares (1.e4 in this case), the knight, bishop and queen can all come off the back rank as needed to influence the center. Mobility is ALL important! (A piece that cannot move is of little use.) The knight, bishop and queen ALL increase their mobility by moving off the edge toward the middle, threatening more squares from the center of the board. Rapid piece development off the back row can lead to some quick attacks if your opponent moves too many pawns or the same piece back and forth wasting time. Activate your entire army for a stronger fighting force. Get a numbers advantage. Do this by developing a different piece off the back row into the fight on each turn!! Play with your faster pieces, not your slow pawns!

    In the opening, it's generally best to move a center pawn, both knights and bishops (the minor pieces) to prepare to safely castle the king away from the raging battle in the center. The two armies will fight in the center of the board while your castled king watches from a distant corner. General Tip: In most well-played games, the king and rooks first moves are sideways, not forward. The rooks like the space between them cleared out so they can guard each other... this is called connected rooks. The king does not charge out to fight until much, much later in the game after most of the faster pieces are traded off (the opening dozen moves and middle game exchanges have come and gone) when there's no fear of him getting checkmated due to lack of remaining material in the endgame.

    Legall's Checkmate. This well-known checkmate pattern uses three minor pieces to checkmate the opposing king before it has a chance to castle. In the opening phase, quickly bring your minor pieces off the back row! White moves the Ng1 to Nf3 to Ne5 to protect the Bxf7+ coming next. This knight maneuver into the middle is an unpin that exposes the unmoved White queen to capture... a sitting sacrifice that buys time. While the Black bishop is busy capturing the White queen, the White minor pieces swarm in upon the Black king for checkmate. (Instead of getting checkmated, Black's best play is to capture the White knight in the middle to stop Legall's checkmate, which allows the White queen to capture the undefended Black bishop.)

    More Basic Checkmates in the Italian Game (C50-C55) and Uncommon Openings (A00) show how to use the knight, bishop and queen to quickly smash Black's position if Black delays minor piece development. Black's f7-square is vulnerable in the opening because it's only protection is by the king. The student cannot win a game of chess until s/he understands how to inflict checkmate (as well as prevent incoming threats)! Most mating attacks require three or four units working together. One and two piece attacks are a waste of time.

    Note that White on the attack often ignores the threat of a minor piece (knight or bishop) being captured by a pawn to continue on with the attack! Remember, when one of your pieces is threatened with capture, do not automatically retreat it to safety. Instead, try to make a greater threat against the opposing king or queen.

    Chew up the Center Counter/Scandinavian (B01) defense. White should always accept Black's pawn offer 2.exd5 and then develop the minor pieces (knights and bishops) with a comfortable game. Gain time by threatening the Black queen when possible. Just be aware of Black's bishops pinning White knights.

    Swallow the Sicilian with the Grand Prix Attack (B23). This is a good attacking Anti-Sicilian line that expands on the kingside. White should use the 3.Bb5 Closed system (B25) if Black plays 2.Nc6. You can find more on the GBW way to play the Grand Prix here: Game Collection: BRCC: Against The Sicilian These same Anti-Sicilian concepts can be used as Black when combating the English Opening 1.c4. See the (A27) games toward the bottom of the list.

    Serve an extra free pawn in the Scotch Gambit (C44-C45). For more Scotch Gambit ideas check out "A Lazy Player's Guide To The Scotch Gambit" http://web.archive.org/web/20020803... Many of our players like the Italian Game 3.Bc4. You can find another agressive way to play here: Game Collection: BRCC: Mad Italian Openings For White

    Dilute Damiano's (C40) Defense 2...f6? Beginning 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 f6? is a poor defense if White has studied how to take advantage of it. White can execute the immediate knight sacrifice 3.Nxe5! as shown in the (C40) sample games. Or, White can play 3.Bc4 or 3.d4 safely as shown in the (A00) game.

    Fry the French (C00-C19) Defense with Nc3 Variations (Winawer and Classical)See Game Collection: French Defense: Winawer. Poisoned Pawn Variation and Game Collection: FRENCH CLASSICAL for more.

    Fredthebear has significantly boosted the French repertoire with many additional games. White must carefully protect his center pawns against the French defense and expect Black to form a battery along the c-file. White nearly always castles kingside, away from Black's queenside expansion. Sometimes White trades off the e-pawn and makes use of the e-file. White often benefits from having the safer castled king against the French defense; the Black king may or may not castle.

    For Black:

    Most of the repertoire is based on responding to 1.e4 with ...e5. If you want another approach, consider the Sicilian Sveshnikov: Game Collection: BRCC: Sicilian Sveshnikov, Paulsen, & Neo-Paulse

    Two Knights Defense. Foodfight hesitated to recommend this. Make sure you learn this system well if you are going to play it. There is a lot to learn here (but the games are exciting tactical battles). Check out this game collection: Game Collection: Two Knights Additional Study Also check out this excellent collection on the Traxler Counter-attack:Game Collection: Wandering Tour through the Traxler Counterattack More Black victories in the Two Knights: Game Collection: two knights The Giuoco Piano is a quieter alternative: Game Collection: BRCC: 1. e4 Games For White and Black

    Ruy Lopez, Schliemann Defense. This is complex, but fun, approach. You can (and need to) learn more here: Game Collection: repertorio gaston If the Schliemann is not for you consider the Marshall Attack - Game Collection: MARSHALL ATTACK The Marshall Attack in the Spanish Game is more involved for Black.

    Also prepare a Black defense for the Danish Gambit, Scotch Game, and Four Knights Game.

    Against 1.d4 2.c4 Queen's Gambit, play the Albin Countergambit - There are more games to look at here: Game Collection: Albin

    If White starts 1.d4 but does not offer 2.c4, Black must prepare for slower approaches that generally aim for a kingside attack, especially the popular Colle System.

    Note: Against 1.Nf3, Black is advised to replay with 1...d5 in preparation for transposals, but 1...g3 can be met by 1...e5.

    What to think about during a chess game?

    Chess Tip: "Attack a more important unit!" "Attack" means to take aim at an opposing unit, threatening to capture it on the next turn. A "more important unit" is any opposing army member of greater value. The pawn has the least value, the king has the greatest value. For example, you might aim a pawn at his bishop, or aim your knight at his rooks or royalty. Start by looking to attack the most important piece first...the king.

    The object of chess is to checkmate the king. The king is more important than all the other units combined. Your king must survive while you go after his king! But, if you cannot check the king in 1 or 2 moves, then consider taking aim at the queen, or rooks because they have a lot of mobility once the pawns are out of the way. It can be wise to aim your long range pieces (bishops, rooks and queen) through a pawn or knight at the opponent's most important pieces (king, queen, and rooks). So, try to attack a more important piece, especially royalty, by direct aim or by indirect aim through a unit sitting in between the attacker and the target.

    The old games of Gioachino Greco and Paul Morphy give excellent examples of how to attack the king. If no attack on the king is readily available, they often attack the queen or rook -- the next most important pieces. Just remember that capturing the opposing queen or rook improves your chances of winning eventually, but does not guarantee a win. For after you make your capture, the move now belongs to your opponent, who may go after your own king!

    Before you look for your move, stop and think about what your opponent intends to do next. What is your opponent's NEXT move? What is s/he aiming at? Am I in check? Can s/he put me in check on the next turn? If s/he makes a capture, will I re-capture or do something else? Can s/he add add another attacker or subtract my defender (get rid of a protective unit one way or another) from the protection coverage? Where can I be outnumbered? Examine all possible CHECKS and CAPTURES on the move, and threats to check or capture in TWO MOVES. Consider an attacking move -- taking aim -- for each and every piece. Don't ignore any pieces, theirs or yours. Don't leave any back row pieces just sitting still on their original squares. It's O.K., often wise for flank pawns to sit on their original squares. The center pawns need to be moved early in the game, but the flank pawns might or might not move at all. Try not to move flank pawns until the endgame arises after several captures have been made.

    Knights are especially tricky. A dark-squared knight can attack several different dark squares in two moves (moving from dark square to light square to dark square). Likewise, a light-squared knight can attack several light squares in two moves (moving from light square to dark square to light square). Conversely, the dark squared bishop might only need one move to attack two units on the same dark line. The LIGHT squared bishop might only need one move to attack two units on the same LIGHT line. However, bishops cannot change colors or hop over obstructive pawns like the knight can. Knights work well in a crowd. Bishops need open lines. Bishops get stronger as more and more pawns are removed.

    The key is to not get so greedy, tunnel vision, or overly concerned about one particular move that you forget to consider a move by each and every piece. Playing the obvious move will get you beat by the not-so-obvious move that you forgot to consider! Find the best move by each piece, then compare each possibility and decide which one move fits the needs of the position the best.

    When you see a good move -- wait! Look for a better move. Keep shopping around. You wouldn't marry the first girl you see, would you?

    Sometimes you can temporarily ignore the opponent's threat to make a stronger move of your own. For example, if your opponent is trying to capture your knight, but you can capture his rook with check, you can ignore this threat against your knight and take his rook instead! In another instance, you might be able to pin the attacker to it's king so it cannot move to capture. A pin can really slow down the opponent if s/he cannot wiggle out of it!

    Another Chess Tip: Try to make one move that attacks two opposing units at the same time. For example, a bishop pin or a knight fork aims at two opposing units at the same time, sometimes three! This is especially useful if one or more of the opposing units are undefended, free for the taking on the next turn. The concept of "double attack" at the same time is very important in chess. Your opponent only has one move, and might not be able to save both units from capture.

    Most strong chess players solve tactics, combinations, and checkmate positions every day. It's a lot of fun to analyze chess diagrams from a book to find the best move. Most old-timers have studied chess puzzles published by authors Fred Reinfeld, Milton Finkelstein, Julius Du Mont, Larry Evans, and Dr. Siegbert Tarrasch. Others have studied puzzles by authors Gary Lane, Julian Hodgson, Paul Littlewood, Raymond Keene, John Nunn and Neil McDonald. A.J. Gillam and Murray Chandler have written some excellent books for scholastic players to study. "The Right Way to Play Chess" by David Pritchard is inexpensive and full of useful information for advanced beginners and intermediates. A simple but highly useful book on checkmates is "Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess" by Bobby Fischer and friends! Of course, there are so many other good chess writers around the world. However, I caution students: If the book has lots and lots of writing and very few diagrams, it is probably too advanced and probably should wait some years for advancement. Instead, get a chess puzzle book with lots of diagrams (usually 300+ diagrams in one book).

    Learning to find the best move in a position will make you a strong attacker. Identifying the opponent's best move coming next will turn you into a strong defender. Both will result from solving chess puzzles every day!

    Repetition is the Key to Studying This List of Games: A) Play through the first five games twice. Go back to the top. B) Play through the first ten games twice. Return to the top. C) Play through the first fifteen games twice. Return to top. D) Play through the first twenty games twice. Return to top. E) Play through the first twenty-five games twice. Etc. Etc. F) Play through the first thirty games twice. Etc. Etc. Etc. Replays continue to slowly but surely add to your foundation of knowledge without forgetting what you already know.

    Fredthebear is working on other chess projects. No significant changes or additions are expected to this collection until 2019.

    * Tpstar 2Ns: Game Collection: tpstar 2N

    * A few Spanish Closed Defense games by Rubinstein: Game Collection: A Spanish Repertoire for Black


    278 games, 1620-2015

  11. battles
    6 games, 1886-1993

  12. Best Frenchies Compiled by Robert Samuels
    This collection of 22 games was Compiled by Robert Samuels. Thank you Robert Samuels! FTB plans no changes at this time.
    22 games, 1882-2016

  13. Birdie F4lies into Stonewall
    FTB let's it fly once in awhile, but not around the kids. (Geez, that could be misinterpreted. Good manners are forever fashionable. Always be humble and kind and helpful. Stay clean and sober; you'll have far less to regret later.) Trot out 1.e4 or 1.d4 around the youngsters. They need to learn to focus on controlling and developing through the center.

    This is a FTB collection clarification as we go along, so there's no hurry.

    21 games, 1834-2012

  14. Black Repertoire: 1.d4 d5 Compiled by libertyjac
    This collection was Compiled by libertyjack. Thank you libertyjack!

    Dear reader,

    Not everyone knows that mastering the queen's gambit declined is essential for anyone wanting to become a strong positional player. But I realized it and I will continue to play it until I become a strong player.

    It is based mostly on Matthew Sadler's book 'The Queen's Gambit Declined', except for chapter 3 where I did a bit of research on the internet and with the chessgames.com opening explorer.

    Specialists of the Queen's Gambit Declined that you will follow are Nigel Short, Efim Geller and Alexander G Beliavsky

    <1. d4 d5 2. c4 e6 3. Nc3 Be7> It's the idea of <Geller> to play this move. It stops any exchange variation with Bg5, notably the most dangerous for black of them all.

    I) Queen's Gambit Declined Exchange Variation <4. cxd5 exd5>


    click for larger view

    ------------

    II) Queen's Gambit Declined Bf4


    click for larger view

    A very fashionable and complicated variation for both sides

    ------------

    III) Queen's Gambit Declined Tartakower Variation Main Line <4. Nf3 Nf6 5. Bg5 h6 6. e3 0-0 7. Bh6 b6>


    click for larger view

    ------------

    IV) Playing against d pawn rare systems

    a) Stonewall attack.


    click for larger view

    A Abdul Rahman vs M Aboudi, 2010 is a very concrete example of the risks for white in this (too) slow opening

    b) Colle-Zukertort system


    click for larger view

    The white player wants to hack your kings but as usual central counterplay is the key answer

    W John vs Nimzowitsch, 1910

    c) Pure Colle System <2. e3 Nf6 3. Bd3 e6>


    click for larger view

    "The deadly pawn triangle", as Kingscrusher says, is not that deadly but is certainly to be considered seriously

    E El Gindy vs S Halkias, 2003, E P Nirmal vs P Mohana, 2008

    d) Levitsky attack <2. Bg5 Nf6>


    click for larger view

    A favorite of Hodgson that aims to bring unusual positions to the board

    * <3. Bxf6>

    Van der Wiel vs Timman, 1990 R Djurhuus vs Carlsen, 2006, I Rogers vs Kasparov, 2001, H Borchgrevink vs V Akobian, 1996

    e) The Blackmar-Diemer Gambit < 2. e4 dxe4 3. Nc3 Nf6 4. f3 exf3 5. Nxf3 Bg4 6. h3 Bxf3 7. Qxf3 c6>

    dx


    click for larger view

    A crazy opening that it quite unsound. Castling queenside will annoy white over-agressive players.

    7 games, 1980-2011

  15. Boleslavsky Sicilians
    18 games, 1887-1992

  16. Botvinik Study
    2 games, 1956-1960

  17. Botvinnik Selected Games 1967-1970
    15 games, 1967-1969

  18. Botvinnik Wins w/the French Defense
    22 games, 1935-1969

  19. Breakin, Enterin & Attackin by Gypsy & Emilio
    Attacks against typical and a-typical castling setups -- sneaks and breaks into King's homes, palaces, and/or redoubts.

    When were window panes invented? It seems the Romans had this knowledge before the Dark Ages. So when was the first rock thrown through a window pane? Probably about as soon as some commoner thought he could get away with it.

    Fredthebear copied this collection of 80 games from Gypsy. Thank you Gypsy! FTB has filled in some game labels and re-arranged the order.

    Emilio's attacking games are being added. FTB will provide game labels.

    More to come.

    103 games, 1862-2010

  20. Budapest/Tennison
    5 games, 1912-1978

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